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49      <td width="100%"><!--mstheme--><font face="Georgia, Times New Roman, Times"><h1><!--mstheme--><font color="#800000"><!--mstheme--><i><!--mstheme--><b><a name="top"></a>HISTORY OF FAIRBANKS<!--mstheme--></font><!--mstheme--></i><!--mstheme--></b></h1>
50      <h2><!--mstheme--><font color="#666600"><!--mstheme--><i><!--mstheme--><b>
50Barnette Founded Fairbanks, but Gold Brought the People<!--mstheme--></font><!--mstheme--></i><!--mstheme--></b></h2>
51      <p><font color="#666600" size="5"><b><i>Captain Barnette</i></b></font><br>
52      Captain E.T. Barnette's goal in 1901 was to set up a
53      trading post in Tanacross, where the Tanana River crossed the Valdez-Eagle trail. But on
54      the way, he wrecked his own boat and was stranded at the village of St. Michael on the
55      west coast of Alaska. He persuaded the captain of the steamer Lavelle Young to take him
56      further up the Tanana River. Shallow water forced the boat up the Chena River.&nbsp;</p>
57      <p>
58      <img src="images/lavelle.gif" alt="LaVelle Young Sternwheeler" align="right" border="0" width="441" height="200">[<b><font
59      face="Arial" size="2">This photo of&nbsp; the LaVelle Young, from the
60      Erskine Collection, is courtesy of the<br>
61      UAF Archives.]</font></b></p>
62      <p>When (about seven miles from its mouth at the Tanana) the water
63      became too shallow, Barnette was deposited onto a high spot on the riverbank. It was
64      August, 1901, and the trading post became Fairbanks.</p>
65      <p><a href="felix-pedro.htm">Felix Pedro</a>  and Tom Gilmore, miners in the
66      hills north of town, saw the smoke from the LaVelle Young and walked in.
67      It
68      was meeting the miners and learning that there were other prospectors in the area that
69      persuaded Captain Barnette to set up a trading post where he was until he could move his
70      goods to Tanacross, his original destination.&nbsp;</p>
71        <p>He never did move to Tanacross. Earlier that year Barnette had
72      promised <a href="judge-wickersham.htm">Federal Judge James Wickersham</a> 
73        that he
74      would call the new settlement Fairbanks, in honor of Charles Fairbanks, a
75      Republican senator from Indiana whom the judge greatly admired. In return, Wickersham, who
76      was the most powerful government official in 300,000 square miles, promised to help
77      Barnette succeed.</p>
78      <p>Captain and Mrs. E.T. Barnette's trading post and home were the
79      first non-Native buildings in Fairbanks. The Trading Post formed the nucleus of early
80      Fairbanks, extending from First to Third avenues, and from Cushman to Cowles.</p>
81        <p><a name="gold"></a><font color="#666600" size="5"><b><i>Gold is Discovered</i></b></font><br>
82        In 1902, a year later, word of the gold in creeks around
83      Fairbanks started a stampede. <a href="felix-pedro.htm">Felix Pedro</a> 
84        is
85      credited with that discovery. It was only the first explosion in a long
86      history of booms and busts in Fairbanks. Gold-seekers poured in and threw up homes and
87      businesses.</p>
88      <p>Wickersham kept his promise to Captain Barnette in April of 1903, when he decided
89      to build his government offices in Fairbanks. By November 1903, Fairbanks was an
90      incorporated city and Barnette was its first mayor.</p>
91      <p>The discovery of gold came 35 years after Alaska was purchased by the United States
92      from Russia for $7.2 million, but it was another 57 years before Alaska became a state.</p>
93      <p>Since the 1902 gold rush, Fairbanks has grown and been altered by many things -
94      chief among these war, effects of military spending and construction (including the Alaska
95      Highway and the Alaska Railroad), Statehood, a devastating flood, the discovery of oil and
96      the building of the trans-Alaska oil pipeline.</p>
97      <p>Fairbanks survived food shortages in the winters of 1902 and 1903, a flood in 1905,
98      and a fire that wiped out downtown in 1906. Each time, the pioneer spirit and
99      determination of Fairbanks' settlers rebuilt the city, improving it each time.</p>
100      <p>
100By 1905, gold production had risen to $6,000,000 a year. Fairbanks had electricity
101      and sewer service, a powerplant, a three-story skyscraper, saloons, stores, police and
102      fire protection, and a thriving &quot;Red Light&quot; district.</p>
103      <p>One important historic building is&nbsp; <a href="episcopal-church.htm">St.
104      Matthew's Episcopal Church</a>  which was built in 1905 along with a hospital--the
105      first in Fairbanks--which admitted its first patients in 1904. When the church burned in
106      1947, it was replaced with the current simple, log building patterned after the original.
107      Today, St. Matthew's also is owner of the historic Kellum house just east of the church.</p>
108      <p>Fairbanks' early development peaked around 1906-1909, and the population was about
109      5,000. By then, the town had four churches, a school, three banks, and two hospitals. Five
110      buildings in the 1100 block of First Avenue date from this time.</p>
111      <p>The <a href="masonic-temple.htm">Masonic Temple</a>  was built by The
112      Tanana Commercial Co. in 1906 and sold to the local Masons in 1908 for a meeting hall.
113      (Fraternal organizations were popular in early Fairbanks).&nbsp;&nbsp; It was remodeled
114      extensively in 1916. The current false front looks very much as it did in
115      1916.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
116      <p><a name="wood"></a>The R.C. Wood house at 927 First Avenue is one of the oldest
117      homes remaining in Fairbanks. Banker R.C. Wood built it in 1908, and, although more recent
118      owners added onto the house, it has been well maintained. It is an example of an early
119      frame, rather than log, home.</p>
120      <p>The <a href="thomas-memorial-library.htm">George C. Thomas Memorial Library</a> is
121      another important feature on First Avenue, and dates to 1909. This was Fairbanks' only
122      public library for 68 years, until 1977 when the collection was moved to the newly built
123      modern Noel Wien Library.</p>
124      <p>As early Fairbanks grew along First Avenue, it was also growing down Cushman
125      Street. Near the corner of Cushman and Fourth Avenue stood <a href="palace-saloon.htm">The
126      Palace Hotel</a>, which has since been moved to Alaskaland.</p>
127      <p>Dates on this building are murky. Historical societies in Fairbanks date the hotel
128      from &quot;as early as 1910 at its Cushman location, next door to Harry Cribb's hardware
129      and building materials store.&quot; But state that the hotel survived &quot;in nearly its
130      original condition&quot; the fire of 1906, that destroyed most of the downtown buildings.</p>
131      <p>The Palace Hotel is an example of commercial buildings in early downtown Fairbanks.
132      It is a simple, symmetrical structure of peeled logs chinked with cement and has different
133      window types throughout. It is thought that the windows were installed hurriedly at the
134      end of the building season, using left over windows from Harry Cribb's shop.</p>
135      <p>It was renamed the Chena Hotel in 1957, and in 1967 was moved to Alaskaland. Today,
136      many of the old Fairbanks buildings rest at the park and all are owned by the Fairbanks
137      North Star Borough.</p>
138        <p><font color="#666600" size="5"><i><b>Early Mining in Fairbanks</b></i></font><br>
139        Fairbanks survived as a mining town when others
140      disappeared, in part because of how hard it was to remove gold from the ground.</p>
141      <p>Early miners cut trees to build fires to thaw the ground, but in just a few years,
142      the trees were gone and miners ran into bedrock. In 1908 there were 18,500 people in the
143      Fairbanks mining district. By 1920 the town's population had shrunk to 1,100.</p>
144      <p>Mining revived when the F.E. Co. began <a href="gold-dredges.htm">dredge mining</a>,
145      something that required more capital than individual miners could afford. Until World War
146      II, mining remained an important industry .</p>
147      <p>War meant jobs and activity for Fairbanks. The military constructed airfields,
148      roads and communication systems. That meant construction and other jobs for local
149      residents, and sales for merchants. <a href="fort-wainwright.htm">Ladd Air Force Base</a>,
150      begun as a cold weather testing station (and later turned into an army post and renamed
151      <a href="fort-wainwright.htm">Fort Wainwright</a>) took on new roles.</p>
152      <p>The Cold War era brought renewed defense spending in Alaska as radar systems and
153      missile sites were installed and bases and posts expanded.</p>
154      <p>Alaska became a state in 1959, but began as a poor state. In Interior Alaska,
155      two-thirds of the labor force was employed by government in one form or another.</p>
156        <p><font color="#666600" size="5"><i><b>Flood Inundates Fairbanks</b></i></font><br>
157        The waters of the Chena River overflowed in 1967, flooding
158      Fairbanks. The disaster, in some ways, was an economic boon. Federal aid
159      helped businesses rebuild and residents received low-interest financing to restore their
160      homes or build new ones. Many homeowners found themselves with better furnishings than
161      they had before the flood!</p>
162      <p>The 1968 Prudhoe Bay oil lease sale brought the<img src="images/pipeline.gif" alt="Trans Alaska Pipeline " align="right" border="0" WIDTH="208" HEIGHT="142"> young
163      state its first riches. Pipeline construction and other oil-related activities swelled the
164      population with workers seeking wages of up to $1500 a week, and the population swelled to
165      74,000 people in the Fairbanks North Star Borough.</p>
166      <p>By 1978, it was bust time again. A recession triggered by the oil crash followed.
167      One quarter in 1979 showed Fairbanks unemployment at 20 percent.</p>
168      <p>Another boom followed. As oil revenues poured into state coffers, Alaska
169      legislators made billion-dollar decisions. Between 1980 and 1986, this state with only a
170      half million people had about $26 billion in revenue.</p>
171      <p>Today oil revenues are starting to decline and the question of the day is how
172      Alaska will prosper in the future. If it is true that history repeats itself, Fairbanks
173      can count on a cycle of boom and bust.</p>
174        <p><font color="#666600" size="5"><i><b>Building in Fairbanks</b></i></font><br>
175        Fairbanks has an unique architectural history. Building
176      styles developed far away from those of the rest of the United States, but elements of
177      popular styles from the Lower 49 are evident in many buildings.</p>
178      <p>The earliest buildings in Fairbanks were made of logs. In 1906, fire ruined much of
179      the original townsite, and only a few buildings survived. Replacements were frame homes
180      and stores using lumber produced at two local sawmills. For the first time, two-story
181      buildings appeared.</p>
182      <p>Commercial buildings were very simple frame affairs behind more elaborate
183      &quot;false
184      fronts,'' such as those commonly identified with western frontier towns in the Lower 49.
185      Few of these commercial and industrial buildings remain. Most of the buildings left, built
186      before 1940, are houses or cabins.</p>
187      <p>
187Building practices were influenced by the materials available and the harsh climate
188      of the Interior.&nbsp; Many of the early homes were built with green lumber, which was
189      cheap and abundant, but often twisted and gave over time, resulting in cold, drafty
190      cabins. Winterization techniques, too, were often inefficient in Fairbanks, such as
191      double-hung windows without storm panes, which is common in warmer states.</p>
192      <p>Before 1950, commercial buildings often were insulated with sawdust, against
193      current building codes. Many had additions added with inadequate foundations, or were
194      built in areas subject to flooding. The result is that many of the historic &nbsp;
195      buildings in Fairbanks have foundations that have settled. Log buildings suffer the most
196      from the sagging foundations.</p>
197        <p><font color="#666600" size="5"><b><i>Downtown Character</i></b></font><br>
198        The <a href="historic-preservation-fairbanks.htm">Tanana-Yukon Historical
199      Society</a>  works to preserve the old buildings, and they believe that &quot;the
200      First Avenue 'Streetscape' is important historically because Fairbanks started and grew in
201      this area. Today, it is one of the few entire districts that still retains much of its
202      early character.&quot;</p>
203        <p>July 23, 1923, was an important day in Fairbanks. At 10
204      a.m.&nbsp; <a href="warren-harding.htm">President Warren G. Harding</a>, the
205      first chief executive to visit the territory, addressed a crowd at Weeks Field, in
206      celebration of the completion of the Alaska Railroad. It was to be decades later before
207      another sitting president visited Alaska.</p>
208      <p>Harding also spoke at the <a href="masonic-temple.htm">Masonic Temple</a> 
209      on
210      First Avenue, and allegedly ate dinner at the <a href="#wood">R.C. Wood</a> 
211      home
212      down the street. Weeks Field is gone now, replaced by the Arctic Bowl building and the
213      Fairview Manor Apartments, but the temple and the <a href="#wood">Wood</a> 
214      house remain, as well as assorted other historic buildings.</p>
215      <p>There was a Fairbanks tradition to lay out the town in long, narrow lots running
216      from street to street. Rather than houses on one side of the street facing houses on the
217      other, most of the early homes in Fairbanks had garages or outbuildings at the rear of the
218      lot, facing the homes on the other side of the back street.</p>
219        <p><font color="#666600" size="5"><i><b>North of the Chena River</b></i></font><br>
220        The area north of the Chena River was once an island in the
221      middle of the river, bounded on the north by a slough which has since dried up. Called
222      Garden Island, is was home to market gardens and the railroad depot. As Fairbanks grew, it
223      became home to <a href="catholic-church.htm">The
224      Immaculate Conception Catholic Church,</a>  the offices and warehouses for the
225      <a href="fe-company.htm">Fairbanks Exploration (F.E.) Company</a>, and the
226      subdivision of Slaterville, an early &quot;bedroom'' community for
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